Hydra Island is a journey back in time. It is intimate, aristocratic yet monastic, lavishly bare in nature and abundant in history and art.
It is situated in the Aegean Sea and Saronic Gulf. The island has a crescent shaped harbour overlooking the shores of the Peloponnese and an old town surrounded by stone mansions from the 18th and 19th century, antique bastions and canons from times past, restaurants, cafés, shops, galleries and museums. By taking a stroll you find yourself wandering among narrow cobblestone streets, secluded squares with worn out wells, trailing Bougainvillea plants, rocky hilltops and majestic sea views.
Hydra through the ages
The island has been populated since the third millennium BCE, by farmers and herders, and has been depopulated and repopulated many times throughout its history. Habitation and trading grew during the time of the Eastern Roman Empire, otherwise known as “Byzantine Empire”, and during the Ottoman Times trading and shipping expanded. The Greek War of Independence, after 1821, marked a particularly turbulent time for the island, with its navy fleet playing a pivotal role in the war. The admirals Andreas Miaoulis and, later, Pavlos Kountouriotis are situated on a mythical heroic plane in today’s narratives and are considered important figures in the shaping of Hydra’s and Greece’s modern identity. From the mid 20th century onward, Hydra started growing into a bohemian paradise and art hub. Greek and international artists like Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas, Panayiotis Tetsis, Henry Miller, Clift & Johnston and Leonard Cohen lived and co-sculpted Hydra’s unique cultural landscape, which continues to be carved out today.
Arts and Culture
Hydra has been classified, since the 1950’s, as a Preserved National Monument. Regulations are in place, which ban the use of cars and preserve the island’s traditional local architecture, going as far as applying building methods and materials that were used in the 19th century.
Restored mansions and various buildings were and continue to be repurposed into galleries and museums, creating a unique cultural landscape that encompasses past and present history, the island’s culture and contemporary art.
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THE OLD SLAUGHTER HOUSE
→ The old slaughterhouse by the coast of the harbour hosts a projectspace by the DESTE Foundation for Contemporary Art, run by art collector Dakis Joannou.
Commissioned for 2022 is a project by Jeff Koons.
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HYDRA SCHOOL PROJECTS
→’Hydra School Projects’ is housed in the old ‘Sachtourio’ school of Hydra, named after poet Miltos Sachtouris, and was established by artist and curator Dimitrios Antonitsis. It organizes exhibitions with Greek and international artists.
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HYDRA WORKSHOP CONTEMPORARY ARTS EXHIBITION
→A former shipbuilders workshop became the ‘Hydra Workshop Contemporary Arts Exhibition’, by collector Pauline Karpidas.
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MELINA MERKOURI AUDITORIUM
→The old gunpowder depot was turned into the ‘Melina Merkouri Auditorium’, which is used for community activities, art exhibitions and conferences.
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OLD CARPET FACTORY
→The ‘Old Carpet Factory’ from the 1800’s is now an art residency, creative retreat and recording studio.
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NATIONAL MUSEUM OF HISTORY
→The ‘National Museum of History’, with 18th century jewelry and furniture, resides in the Lazaros Kountouriotis’s 1780 mansion.
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ECCLESIASTICAL MUSEUM
→Located in a monastery, inside a former monk cell, the ‘Ecclesiastical Museum’ hosts religious Christian Orthodox artifacts, musical manuscripts and historical relics.
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HISTORICAL ARCHIVES MUSEUM OF HYDRA
→An old stone building in the harbour is now the ‘Historical Archives Museum of Hydra’, showcasing the tradition and culture of the island during the 18th and 19th century. It has a strong nautical theme, a collection of traditional clothing and one can even find the silver urn with the embalmed heart of Admiral Miaoulis there.
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ATHENS SCHOOL OF FINE ARTS
→The Tombazis Mansion, the old residence of the first admiral of Hydra Jakovos Tombazis, is now the Hydra division of the Athens School of Fine Arts. The Greek painter Periklis Vizantios helped found the division and Mark Chagall once lived in the mansion, while teaching. It is open mainly to the students but visitors are also welcome.
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GARDENIA OPEN AIR CINEMA
→Βetween two old houses, in a tiny stone lane in the town of Hydra, lies the ‘Gardenia’ Open Air Cinema, active since 1955. Notice boards around town inform of the movie currently showing, which can be anything from a silent black and white film, to a foreign arthouse movie and even the latest blockbuster.
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MIAOULIA FESTIVAL
→At the end of June, the ‘Μiaoulia’ Festival takes place, commemorating the naval achievements of Admiral Miaoulis during the Greek War of Independence. It is a series of cultural events, including traditional dancing performances, concerts and boat races, that end with a spectacular re-enactment of a naval battle with the burning of a fleet ship.
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SARONIC CHAMBER
MUSIC FESTIVAL→The annual ‘Saronic Chamber Music Festival’, with the Leondari Ensemble, takes place every summer on the islands of the Saronic gulf, including Hydra.
THE OLD SLAUGHTER HOUSE
→ The old slaughterhouse by the coast of the harbour hosts a projectspace by the DESTE Foundation for Contemporary Art, run by art collector Dakis Joannou.
Commissioned for 2022 is a project by Jeff Koons.
HYDRA SCHOOL PROJECTS
→’Hydra School Projects’ is housed in the old ‘Sachtourio’ school of Hydra, named after poet Miltos Sachtouris, and was established by artist and curator Dimitrios Antonitsis. It organizes exhibitions with Greek and international artists.
HYDRA WORKSHOP CONTEMPORARY ARTS EXHIBITION
→A former shipbuilders workshop became the ‘Hydra Workshop Contemporary Arts Exhibition’, by collector Pauline Karpidas.
MELINA MERKOURI AUDITORIUM
→The old gunpowder depot was turned into the ‘Melina Merkouri Auditorium’, which is used for community activities, art exhibitions and conferences.
OLD CARPET FACTORY
→The ‘Old Carpet Factory’ from the 1800’s is now an art residency, creative retreat and recording studio.
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF HISTORY
→The ‘National Museum of History’, with 18th century jewelry and furniture, resides in the Lazaros Kountouriotis’s 1780 mansion.
ECCLESIASTICAL MUSEUM
→Located in a monastery, inside a former monk cell, the ‘Ecclesiastical Museum’ hosts religious Christian Orthodox artifacts, musical manuscripts and historical relics.
HISTORICAL ARCHIVES MUSEUM OF HYDRA
→An old stone building in the harbour is now the ‘Historical Archives Museum of Hydra’, showcasing the tradition and culture of the island during the 18th and 19th century. It has a strong nautical theme, a collection of traditional clothing and one can even find the silver urn with the embalmed heart of Admiral Miaoulis there.
ATHENS SCHOOL OF FINE ARTS
→The Tombazis Mansion, the old residence of the first admiral of Hydra Jakovos Tombazis, is now the Hydra division of the Athens School of Fine Arts. The Greek painter Periklis Vizantios helped found the division and Mark Chagall once lived in the mansion, while teaching. It is open mainly to the students but visitors are also welcome.
GARDENIA OPEN AIR CINEMA
→Βetween two old houses, in a tiny stone lane in the town of Hydra, lies the ‘Gardenia’ Open Air Cinema, active since 1955. Notice boards around town inform of the movie currently showing, which can be anything from a silent black and white film, to a foreign arthouse movie and even the latest blockbuster.
MIAOULIA FESTIVAL
→At the end of June, the ‘Μiaoulia’ Festival takes place, commemorating the naval achievements of Admiral Miaoulis during the Greek War of Independence. It is a series of cultural events, including traditional dancing performances, concerts and boat races, that end with a spectacular re-enactment of a naval battle with the burning of a fleet ship.
SARONIC CHAMBER
MUSIC FESTIVAL
→The annual ‘Saronic Chamber Music Festival’, with the Leondari Ensemble, takes place every summer on the islands of the Saronic gulf, including Hydra.
Towns and Villages
HYDRA TOWN is the central settlement of Hydra. Further up the hill are the quiet and less populated areas of KALA PIGADIA, meaning “good wells”, and KIAFA. These parts of the island used to be much more populated in the past, when pirates still roamed the Aegean sea, since the hills provided guarded safety. Later on, the settlements expanded and extended towards the shore, forming today’s Hydra Town. A 30 minute hike on the scenic coastal road, which starts at the port, leads to the fishing village KAMINI and the VLYCHOS settlement. Αnother charming hiking option, which takes about 2 hours, is a visit to the valley of EPISKOPI. It goes by the settlements of Kamini and Vlychos, past the shipyard and olive grove of Palamidas valley, towards the east of the island. While the east coast is rocky and barren, the southeast part is full of pine trees.
Beaches
In the west of Hydras’s harbour are the rocky “sun decks” of SPILIA, meaning ‘cave’. It is the most nearby and popular spot to sunbathe and take a swim. At close proximity, by taking the coastal road, is the tiny AVLAKI beach. By continuing on the road, or by taking a water taxi, you arrive at VLYCHOS and PLAKES beach. Located on the northwest is the only sandy beach on the island, named MANDRAKI.
Towards the southeast of the island and accessible by taking a water taxi or boat ride is the pebbled BISTI beach, with natural shade from pine trees, and AGIOS NIKOLAOS beach, which is very protected from strong winds and perfect if you are looking for calm waters. There are also a number of secluded beaches which are very peaceful and quiet, but since there are no canteens or beach bars nearby, keep in mind to bring anything you might need with you, like an umbrella, water and food. MOLOS beach, very protected from winds since its a cove, and KAOUMINTHI beach are located on the west coast. NISIZA and LIMIONIZA are on the east coast and facing south, while KLIMAKI beach is facing east.
Monasteries
Hydra Island has a considerable number of monasteries, all of which are Christian Orthodox. They were established during the 17th and 18th century and showcase their ‘byzantine’ architectural influences and religious art. The hiking trails leading to each of them are beautiful in nature, walking through pine trees, wildflowers and mountainous terrains, while gazing at the sea and the not so distant shores of the Peloponnese.
Located in the center of Hydra Town is the cathedral and old monastery of the DORMITION OF THE VIRGIN, with its marble clocktower. Inside the premises is the Ecclesiastical Museum. Near the slopes of Mount Eros is the monastery of PROPHET ELIAS, which was founded in 1813, and very close to that is the SAINT EFPRAXIA convent. It was founded in 1819 and used to be known for its textile production. On the hill over Hydra Town is the convent of SAINT FOTINI & ELISABETH, positioned near the cemetery. Further to the north of the island is the monastery of SAINT NIKOLAOS. It was founded in 1675 and contains religious art from the 17th century. Other noteworthy monasteries are the HOLY TRIAD, SAINT MATRONA and the secluded monastery of ZOURVAS, located on the eastern edge of Hydra Island.